Continent: Europe

Europe came to me early and secondhand — in atlases whose borders were already out of date, in films watched at the wrong speed on a small screen. These are the European places I have never stood in, only arrived at on paper.

  • Charcoal sketch of the wide Neva at a pale white-night dusk, a long low palace facade running along the embankment and a thin gold spire across the water - never been abroad

    St. Petersburg

    St. Petersburg is a city someone willed up out of a swamp and a sentence, and I have been living in the sentence for years without ever buying the ticket.

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  • Charcoal sketch of the single Gothic spire of St Stephen's rising over the old roofs of Vienna at first light, the great Ferris wheel faint in the distance - never been abroad

    Vienna

    Vienna is a capital built for an empire that no longer exists, and I have furnished a whole one of my own without ever buying the ticket.

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  • Charcoal sketch of the Danube dividing hilly Buda from flat Pest at dusk, the river wide and pale between them, a bridge low across it - never been abroad

    Budapest

    Budapest is two cities that married late and kept separate beds — a flat one and a hilly one, with a grey river running down the gap between them.

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  • Charcoal sketch of a grand columned gate at the head of a wide boulevard, the low city beyond in grey light - never been abroad

    Berlin

    Berlin is a city cut in half and stitched back together within living memory — its hardest history left out in the streets rather than shut in a museum.

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  • Charcoal sketch of red-tiled rooftops tumbling down hills to a wide river estuary, a great red bridge beyond in soft light - never been abroad

    Lisbon

    Lisbon is a city of light and tiles at the western edge of Europe — a faded sea-empire that once sailed off the end of the map, and the man who never sailed at all.

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  • Charcoal sketch of the great ruined amphitheatre and ancient ruins among ochre rooftops, a dome standing beyond in warm haze - never been abroad

    Rome

    Rome is the city half my schoolbooks came from — a living town built on and out of the ancient world, antiquity underfoot among the traffic, never seen.

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  • Charcoal sketch of a curving canal, a humpbacked bridge and a row of tall leaning gabled houses reflected, a few bicycles, low cloud - never been abroad

    Amsterdam

    Amsterdam is a city built below the sea and held at a tilt — ring canals, leaning gabled houses, bicycles past counting. I dream of all that cool water from the hot plains.

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  • Charcoal sketch of grey zinc rooftops and chimney pots running to the iron lattice tower in haze, a glimpse of the river - never been abroad

    Paris

    The most pictured city on earth, the world’s default dream of elsewhere — I have seen Paris ten thousand times and not once. Saturation is its own distance.

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  • Charcoal sketch of a small northern town of low rooftops above a broad bay, a long snow-streaked mountain ridge across the water under a pale wide sky - never been abroad

    Reykjavík

    I was born into heat and crowd, so the place I dream of hardest is the emptiest one: Reykjavík, a bright little town at the rim of the world under far too much sky.

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  • Charcoal sketch of the grey Thames, a bridge and a domed cathedral or clock tower in haze, gulls, low cloud - never been abroad

    London

    The foreign city I know best without ever seeing it — read my whole life in a borrowed language I made my own. I write even this in the tongue it sent us.

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